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Boarding the buss to Leukerbad I was filled with dread and I’m sure if I’d been on my own I would have got off and changed my destination pretty smartish. I really wondered what we were letting ourselves in for, our travelling companions reminded me of the village from A League of Gentlemen. I imagined a village so isolated that inbreeding was the norm.
Anyway I’m glad we did continue, it seems that this sort of spa town attracts those in need of healing - must be the same at Lourdes. I’ve never seen so many wheelchairs and crutches in one high street, I have also never been in such a lively and uninhibited town. Sitting in a bar playing umpah pah music there was no end of people prepared to entertain with impromptu dancing.
Simple inclusive fun that made me feel ashamed to spend so much time finding my body ugly.
On to the spa’s: Burgerbad and Lindner Alpentherme
Burgerbad
This was on a par with most municipal swimming pools, kids, grime and chiped tiles. We arrived late but an hour was enough to survey the offerings.
The sauna was geschlossen which seemed to be the word of the week, but we spent time in the assorted thermal pools, foot baths and dampfbad.
The thermal pools were fairly typical, one indoor, one outdoor, nice views of the mountain range and some bubbles. The foot spas weren’t a patch on the japanese cobble torture baths at Ischia. In fact the only thing worth recommending the Burgerbad for was the dampfbad. This was a dingy cave like room filled with apparently unfiltered, scorching spring water. it felt like walking intot he spout of a boiling kettle - something that painful has got to be good for you! That was finished off with a plunge in a freezing tank just before they pulled the plugs and called an end to the day.
Lindner Alpentherme
First impressions of this place was gutt. A very welcome contrast to the Burgerbad, clean, modern and satisfactorily posh. Lets say it appealed to the snobs in both of us. Having sad that the main thermal area didn’t have so much to offer, just an large indoor and outdoor pool. The outdoor pool had a viscious jacuzzi and some relaxing, bubbling recliners and again had a lovely view.
Fortunately we had splashed out on the works at the Roman Irish baths which were smashing. These baths were very welcoming, sited in a lovely wooden vaulted room. It had 10 different areas which we moved through, gradually upping the temperature as we moved along. Our process was interrupted by a rather rough scrubbing with a bristle brush and a soapy massage.
The last bath was the coldest 12 degree plunge pool I have ever had to endure and it made me feel that all the veins in my calves were thrombosing. Even Shakti hopped straight out and she normally enjoys that sort of torture.
The whole two hour experience ended with us being wrapped up like babies to sleep on a recliner.
It has much to recommend it and the fact that this is a naked bathing area means that kids are not allowed - always a good thing.
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